I have a friend who – because I’m about to reveal that he
wears women’s clothes – I’ll call Alfonso instead of using his real name. Now
here’s the thing about Alfonso: he looks fantastic in women’s clothes. In fact,
I was trying to describe him to my mother one day, and I couldn't quite sum him
up without mentioning it: he used to work in a bike shop but now he designs
solar systems for a growing company. He’s got a giant mop of curly hair and is
really good at random things like roller-skating. And he pulls off wearing
women’s clothes better than anyone I know.
This year, he went to Burning Man for the first time and
wore a flowered women’s onsie. He introduced himself as Pancho Flora and didn’t
take it off the whole time.
Now, here’s the other thing about Alfonso: he’s a
professional who makes a good salary and basically has his shit together —
probably as much as anyone I know.
But it's in a weird, Bay-Area-ish sort of way: he still goes
to punk shows in garages and house parties that screen foreign films, much to
the delight/consternation/self-admiration of the guests. Nothing makes him
happier than free stuff, and taking advantage of things that don't cost money
plays a large role in shaping his social landscape. He rides his bike
everywhere and could be mistaken for a high-schooler by someone who didn’t know
better. And he likes it all this way. He’s living the good life in very
quintessential Berkeley fashion, to the point where, in describing Berkley
to his mother, he says this: it’s like paradise.
And in a number of ways that might not be immediately
obvious, it is. Sure, there are bike racks and bike lanes everywhere, and nice
weather pretty much all the time, and trees that grow food right in
people's yards. And there is, indeed, an abundance of free activities and
resources here and in the larger Bay Area, ranging from slackline yoga
workshops to movie nights to bike kitchens to soup kitchens, plus free clinics
and mental health organizations and spaghetti dinners and the Berkeley Tool
Lending Library, just in case you need to borrow a posthole digger.
But there's more: warehouses converted into performance and
art space for circus schools and glassblowers, urban homesteading and hacker
collectives that teach people real-world skills, and impromptu meet-ups,
gatherings, and workshops all over the city, that are underwritten by the same
can-do meets anything-goes attitude that is so common here . . . the one that
allows people like Alfonso to exist and thrive, peacefully undisturbed as they
head to work sharply attired in tight brown twill pants, black ankle boots with
just the right amount of scuff, a sage green blouse with pheasants and pearl
buttons (on the left), and a tweed vest.
It's an attitude that I see every day, in new ways that
surprise and delight me. If you live in Berkeley, or in a place like it, you
already know about this kind of magic. And if you don't you're saying either,
"I don't want that kind of magic; Alfonso sounds like a freak," or
you're saying, "so what?"
Here's what.
Making space for the free, the unusual, the unencumbered in
the day-to-day urban landscape is the same as making space for growth and
progress. Because growth and progress stem from innovation, and innovation
stems from weirdos being weird – and letting that weirdness, whatever its
particulars, shine through.
Right now, I'm sitting in my neighborhood coffeeshop, Local
123, where I have never once failed to delay my work by entering a hopelessly
interesting and esoteric conversation with a fellow café-goer. Mathematical
modeling of sacred geometries in nature; early childhood development; last
week, it was an architectural student who spent her youth traveling
internationally as an equestrian vaulter. The week before, it was also an
architect. I noticed him working outside in the courtyard on some beautiful
colored drawings. We got into a conversation – it turned out, he had designed
the coffeeshop, teasing its current form from the walls of an abandoned
painters’ union, hence the name – and he promptly invited me back to his firm
to interview with the three managing partners for a job.
And just moments ago, it was an unaffectedly outdoorsy
looking fellow (flipflops, torn jeans, striped cotton shirt with world-may-care
wrinkles and tousled blond hair that could perchance use a cut) who started
rearranging the tables next to me and rolling up the glass garage-style door
that faces the street. When I asked what he’s up to, he replied, “Meat.” In a
snap he unpacked coolers of organic free-range pork chops, spareribs and sausages,
hung a sign (“Highland Hills Farm”), and attracted a gaggle of similarly
flip-flop clad urbanites to his pop-up market.
Why does this kind of thing happen so often in Local 123?
And why does it happen around the corner in Café Yesterday, where amid the
dozens of regulars who make their offices, no-doubt engaging in dozens of equally
esoteric conversations, an entrepreneurial young story-boarder who calls
himself Gurachi uses the spot to base Berkeley Beings, an online
collection of sketches of the characters he encounters? (If he happens to draw
you, he’ll snap a photo of the drawing to complete and post on his website,
then hand you the original – all the while regaling you with an overview of his
professional talents, which include weaving from just a few seed words – “princess,”
“treasure,” “spaceship” – a tale to interest, should you happen to be one, even
an A-list producer.)
And why, more importantly, does it not happen at oh, say,
Starbucks?
I don’t know the specifics of the arrangement between the coffeeshop
and the Meat Man, but clearly it is a coming-together that benefits both — the
coffeeshop building its character and street presence and the Meat Man, a
former building contractor gone save-the-world-type-rancher, attracting
customers in the effortless sort of symbiosis that happens naturally. We got to
talking – about the state of organic agriculture, world population growth, his
latest project to document nontraditional farms across the region – and vowed
to keep in touch. Now, to be sure, this is the “coffeeshop dynamic” that is
frequently touted by urban theorists (a la Richard
Florida), wherein people gather, ideas are bandied about,
connections form, and prosperity blooms. But I’ve rarely seen it work so well
in the trendy, pre-fab chain coffeeshops that are the obvious extension of a
deep faith in this belief, plopped haplessly into urban developments with the
vague hope of producing a similar sort of generative (or at least, robust
economic) interchange.
So why is Local 123 better at fostering spontaneous cultural
expression than the local Starbucks? Well, for one reason, like truffles
that only thrive wild in certain old growth forests, the climate for growth has
to be specific and authentic.
That is, what makes local coffeeshops unique – not just the Meat Man, but open
mics, comedy shows, local art on the walls, dogs, live DJs and more – helps
create an environment that caters to all types of creative exchange, even if
it’s just vibrant conversation. The unique character of the space acts as a
signal for participation, which is neutralized, sterilized, once that space is
coopted and reproduced generically.
It’s like a major clothing label that may look at what “cool”
(ie: countercultural) skateboarders wear, then copy it and re-market it for
mass consumption. People may buy the product, but those people are rarely the
ones who authenticated the look. Similarly, Starbucks may see what a dynamic neighborhood
coffeeshop looks like, copy the couches and tables and art on the wall, and create
an environment that mimics the original (and to be sure, they do – teams of corporate
designers are scouting for new ideas to update that trendy vibe all the time)
but the people who populated the original space are seldom the same as those
enjoying the canned version on every street corner.
Landscapes that support the unexpected are not just about coffeeshops
where anything goes, free events to attract artists and innovators, or free
services support them when they're underpaid for their creativity. And it's not
just artists and innovators who benefit from a diverse and fluid urban
environment. It's that, in a sense, good communities turn everyone into
artists and innovators. On every level that a community comes together to
create, to serve, or to support, more connections are made, more inspiration is
generated, more people find ways to connect in work and play, and happier,
healthier, more productive communities are born. Wherever there is open
dialogue, people interested in what everyone else is doing, confident and
passionate in what they're doing.
Berkeley certainly fits this model, with a unique urban
fabric that seems open to spontaneous intervention by community members at all
levels.
Just blocks from the two cafés, a self-proclaimed Junk Man
oozes his wares onto the sidewalk most sunny days, displaying racks and racks
of books, rounders of antique clothes, old tools, and an assortment of
irresistible odds ‘n’ ends spilling from the bed of an antique truck. Chat with
him for a minute, and you’ll find yourself pulled to the side of the house,
where he propagates succulents, stores salvaged building materials, and
displays collections of everything from old tin buckets to Corning Ware to
sprinkling cans – all available to passers by for a low, low price. Does the
City of Berkeley bother him for his unlicensed and off-the-cuff business? “They
used to,” he says, “but they’ve sort of stopped. They can see I’m not doing any
harm.”
The City of Berkeley does still bother another
longtime resident, sending him a $6,000 bill monthly for a garden of “rescued”
plants that he’s allowed to overtake the sidewalks surrounding his corner home
in an elaborate tangle of arches and canopies – mind you, the sidewalk is still
perfectly navigable, it’s just covered by a bower of junipers and figs and
resuscitated Christmas trees found abandoned on the curbs of Yuletides past. On
his roof, the plot thickens: bins and buckets of composting avocado skins and
eggshells from local restaurants cradle fruit trees sprouted from pits and
seeds discarded at the local farmers’ market. Thick hedges of kale and collards
support tangles of tomato vines, and bees oversee the whole mess, buzzing
through their empire then retiring to a royal palace of whitewashed plywood to
produce their golden elixir.
The architect of this magnificent streetside garden believes
that food grown in the public right-of-way is an imperative, and when he takes
groups of neighbors and schoolkids through the jungle he’s created, he’s
teaching them, he says, not just how to grow food, but how to feed a rebellion
– one which Berkeley is apparently none-too-keen to actually squash,
seeing as all those unpaid six-thousands have resulted in no further action.
Then there’s the Gorilla Chorus (yes, it’s a play on words)
that practices on Thursdays and Saturdays, doors flung open to welcome
passers-by, just kitty-corner from my house. Their motto is that everyone can
sing, and to be honest, they sound pretty good – key to this, I believe, is the
generous basket of tambourines provided for those who may not be fully aligned
corroborate their core operating principle. And their mascot is a barnacle.
They claim he enjoys the music, and I hate to say it, but it seems true. When
they get to really wailing, he extends feathery fronds from the top of his
little stovepipe body and waves.
There’s a pay-what-you-can flower booth with a rusty mailbox
nailed to a picnic table for donations, morning yoga in the median of a major
thoroughfare, plus weirdos and musicians of all stripes milling about
performing for spare change. A lady down the street has a sign nailed to her
fence advertising a women’s spiritual support group on one day a week, and ceramics
classes on another – simply stop on in. None of these things is, in itself,
unheard of for any urban area, but the frequency with which I see it – even on
quiet suburban-type Berkeley streets – never fails to amaze me. These are not
the organized events pinned to community boards and posted on online calendars
and listed in the weekly newspapers, though Berkeley has those too, in great
numbers. This is a more homegrown phenomenon, a little more impromptu and raw.
It’s the sort of thing that can’t be found on an iPhone app. It has to be
discovered where it grows, sometimes in the most unexpected of places – and
because of that, it touches every person in the community, making the whole
shebang more connected, vital and, yes, just a bit closer to paradise.