Truth, Beauty and the Cult(ure) of Images

As of late, Photoshopping in the media has made a big ... well, appearance in the media. To begin with, there are the countless side-by-side comparisons of celebrities to their smoother, skinnier, dimple-and-blemish-less doppelgangers, which provide, in equal measure, feel-good fodder for insecure Interneters — and who wouldn't be, bombarded by impossibly unattainable images of beauty, as we are? — searching desperately for some touchstone against which to gauge their own relative merits, and ammunition for the trolling masses eager to tear down already-under-pressure celebs for any mercilessly revealed flaws.

The phenomenon, and its reported links to social problems like teen bullying and eating disorders, has caused whole governments to consider, and in some cases implement, laws banning the use of Photoshop in magazines, or to require that photos retouched past a certain threshold have a small disclaimer, similar to a copyright mark or safety warning on a product, stating that the picture has been altered. (The first peer-reviewed studies, sponsored by Microsoft, led to the passing of a law in Israel in 2012; though similar bills have been proposed in individual US states, it seems unlikely that such a law would soon pass in free-speech-friendly America. However, France, Britain and Australia have also taken up the cause.) Even more fascinatingly, there's the popularly lauded but questionably effective Photoshop Trojan Horse sponsored by Dove that reverses airbrushed changes and implores the media not to alter our perceptions of real beauty. Taken together, these events have come to embody our dual preoccupation with and unease over the importance and (im)mutability of appearance in our society – the fickleness and changeability of the individual image, and the persistent omnipresence of imagery as a whole.

Yet despite obvious problems with pervasive manipulation of the media that assault us 24/7, it’s understandably difficult to take an objective stance and draw lines when the project of photographing — indeed, of image-making in general — necessarily implies a somewhat disingenuous substitution or conflation of the object, the image, with truth. It’s been occurring since the advent of photography, yet it's a problem that is more easily tackled on an emotional, visceral level — perhaps nowhere so powerfully and evocatively as in this music video created by Hungarian Artist Boggie — than on an intellectual and objective one.

Not that it hasn’t been attempted in the past. In her famous collection of essays, On Photography, Susan Sontag outlined the effects that easily producible and consumable images were already making on our lives in the 1970s. “Photographic images,” she observed, “do not seem to be statements about the world so much as pieces of it, miniatures of reality that anyone can make or acquire.” In this way, she argued, photography creates not only a sense of truth and authentic testimony, but also a sense of ownership with regard to the subjects captured (is this word so often chosen to mean "photographed" a coincidence?), establishing within its users a “chronic voyeuristic” attitude toward the surrounding world. She wrote:

The camera is the ideal arm of consciousness in its acquisitive mood. To photograph is to appropriate the thing photographed. It means putting oneself into a certain relation to the world that feels like knowledge — and, therefore, like power.

Knowledge that feels like power, of course, being a particularly destructive force when one considers much of what society spends its time photographing: that which is unknown (the “other”), and that which is coveted. Take, for example, those endless pictures of starving children or the pervasive low-angle aerial photograph capturing corrugated-tin-roofed shanties disappearing into the distance. Along with such images comes a frighteningly self-assured ability to analyze, patronize, “fix,” and otherwise control that which seems unfamiliar and pitiable. Likewise, steadily streaming images of the desired body, made ever-more desirable through the act of digital manipulation, create the strong inclination to evaluate such images against each other; with the power to photograph a woman comes the power to see how she measures up, to judge her, and to judge others by proxy.

As the game progresses, it wraps up not only the initial players – those being photographed and those doing the photographing – but increasingly, everyone who is exposed. As we are bombarded by progressively more unattainable images in advertising, we are invited to feel insecure — for this is the advertiser’s aim. Use this product or that, they say, and you too can be as improbably smooth and svelte, as dubiously polished, as this model. But in addition to perhaps being ensnared into using a product we don’t need, we also encounter a new unwanted need: the need to affirm our own symbolic self. We are called upon to augment the growing world of images with proof of our own existence, willing our being into pictorial permanence alongside the countless unreal images perceived as reality.

“Needing to have reality confirmed and experience enhanced by photographs,” Sontag declared, “is an aesthetic consumerism to which everyone is now addicted."

It seems almost trivial to point out that for this project, the explosion of social media is more than bespoke. But writing almost two generations ago, Sontag was able to presage this addiction’s present form, noting that photography had already become “almost as widely practiced an amusement as sex and dancing,” as much a consumer tool of power and violence as a car or a gun.

Like a car, a camera is sold as a predatory weapon — one that’s as automated as possible, ready to spring. Popular taste expects an easy, an invisible technology. Manufacturers reassure their customers that taking pictures demands no skill or expert knowledge, that the machine is all-knowing, and responds to the slightest pressure of the will. It’s as simple as turning the ignition key or pulling the trigger. Like guns and cars, cameras are fantasy-machines whose use is addictive.

Photography, then, was no longer a pure art form, but rather a mass art form – a utility, an instrument. “It is mainly a social rite,” Sontag wrote, “a defense against anxiety, and a tool of power.”

What anxiety is that? Less tangible, less measurable than the anxieties over appearance, which are quantifiable in dollars made, products sold, and teenage lives lost to despair and disease, is something more insidious, more pervasive, and every bit as damaging. Something like the fear of not existing at all.

Scientists now refer to a Facebook Syndrome or Facebook Depression – brought on not just by the addictive qualities of social networking, but by the impulse – almost an imperative  – toward very filtered, very strategic self-framing – a manipulation of the truth almost as a bold as the airbrushing practiced by today’s advertising industry.  In a Huffington Post article titled I Facebook, Therefore I Am, writer Pamela Newton comments,

Facebook has taken on less and less the character of a social networking site and more and more that of a massive image-maintenance machine. Everyone posts photos of their beautiful vacations, their beautiful babies, their beautiful spouses, their beautiful homes. In other words, their beautiful lives. I'm not saying people don't have beautiful lives, but on Facebook, everyone's life is so damn perfect. And the number of likes or comments they get on photos and status updates is a gauge of how well they have convinced the world that their life is perfect. Which, judging by the plentiful likes and comments, is pretty damn well.

It's strange, because we all know that in real life, people's lives aren't perfect. Jobs are boring. Relationships are messy. Raising children is complicated and exhausting. Travel is riddled with challenges. And this doesn't even address the various psychological and emotional struggles we all face. (Whoever reported a bout of nihilistic despair in their status update? A panic attack?) But we can't resist the lure of other people's self-created versions of themselves, any more than we can resist the lure to similarly self-create and stay in the game. It's the Keeping-up-with-the-Joneses of this decade.

It’s the logical conclusion of a phenomenon that Sontag identified in the 1970s, in commenting on the prevalent use of photography in tourism. It would be almost unthinkable, she remarked, to take a trip these days without taking a camera. Images are relied upon to validate experience, and to mediate between the experience and the thing experienced. But with the advent of social media, the incessant need to document, to validate, and to mediate (the word, of course, from which media arises) has extended beyond the restricted realm of travel and vacation, making every moment of our lives, from a night out dancing to the breakfast we prepared this morning, fair game for the social media spectacle. She explained that photographs

help people to take possession of space in which they are insecure. Thus, photography develops in tandem with one of the most characteristic of modern activities: tourism. Photographs will offer indisputable evidence that the trip was made, that the program was carried out, that fun was had.

These souvenirs become building blocks, the ephemera out of which we construct the story of our lives, and which we imagine others – tireless researchers and constructors themselves – sifting through to draw their own conclusions. It’s an automatically and relentlessly self-aggrandizing game, planting and curating our own artifacts, putting us in the position of archeologists imagining the excavation of our own identities. According to Sontag, “Photographs, which cannot themselves explain anything, are inexhaustible invitations to deduction, speculation, and fantasy.”

She also points out the underbelly of such a scheme, the natural contrapositive to her observation: “A way of certifying experience, taking photographs is also a way of refusing it — by limiting experience to a search for the photogenic, by converting experience into an image, a souvenir.”

Of course, as exciting as such a project can be, it is also overwhelming in its scope and consequences. If we stop participating, pause the game, it’s almost as if we cease to exist. Sontag’s insights, prescient in the ‘70s, are almost eerily axiomatic in today’s milieu of dizzyingly fast-paced production — not only of work activities, but of play.

Way back in 2010, the average Facebook user generated more than three pieces of content per day. By January 2014, Facebook's 1.26 billion members used the 'Like' or 'Share' buttons about 22 billion times per day. Social media users, not un-self-aware, have a whole new lingo for what they do – 'Food Porn' describes the obsessive documentation of meals prepared at home ("New Fave: quinoa-hemp granola with organic yogurt and strawberries! Yummmmm!") or plates presented in fancy restaurants, much to the consternation of their creators. And 'Selfie' is now the accepted term for what was, heretofore, simply a picture of oneself . . . though as digital self cataloging becomes the new norm for social participation, perhaps the dedicated term, with its pert and somewhat plastic ring, is appropriate.  

The anxiety to which Sontag referred two generations ago – wherein tourists used compulsive picture-taking as a salve against the feelings of guilt and inefficiency which would otherwise arise during leisure-time activities like travel – has now extended to every corner of normal life, even the preparing of dinner.

The coping method, she pointed out, “especially appeals to people handicapped by a ruthless work ethic — Germans, Japanese, and Americans. Using a camera appeases the anxiety which the work-driven feel about not working when they are on vacation and supposed to be having fun. They have something to do that is like a friendly imitation of work: they can take pictures.”

As we clock more and more hours plugged in to social media, constructing the story of ourselves in this way, one has to wonder if we are sacrificing our right to truly experience our own lives to some imagined compulsion to document those same lives, confusing real, lived experience for the digital experience we construct.

The metaphor is particularly poignant as the format of social media comes more and more to reflect the biological. When Facebook retooled the Wall as the Timeline, the digital forum came less to reflect a physical space – a meeting place where we could socialize – and more to act as a stand-in for the body itself, our online avatars now having the ability to participate in a biological arc filled with milestones. And as these Timelines become populated with milestones – in photographic and anecdotal form – it is both an affirmation and a repudiation of our real, lived bodies. For the artifacts both attest to a life lived, and scramble to counter, or even prepare for, ultimate demise. As Sontag wrote,

All photographs are memento mori. To take a photograph is to participate in another person’s (or thing’s) mortality, vulnerability, mutability. Precisely by slicing out this moment and freezing it, all photographs testify to time’s relentless melt.

It’s a chilling paradox, as all addictions are: that which seems so tangibly to sustain us is the very thing that saps us of our vitality — but how do we escape?

For a culture so seemingly rooted in the production and trade of images, it’s a difficult question. But just as Sontag intuitivlely grasped the difficulties of photography that would arise nearly two generations after her celebrated work, she also provides, to some degree, an antidote:

While a painting or a prose description can never be other than a narrowly selective interpretation, a photograph can be treated as a narrowly selective transparency. But despite the presumption of veracity that gives all photographs authority, interest, seductiveness, the work that photographers do is no generic exception to the usually shady commerce between art and truth. Even when photographers are most concerned with mirroring reality, they are still haunted by tacit imperatives of taste and conscience.

Remembering this – that photographs are as much an artistic interpretation of the truth as any other medium – helps us distinguish between between lived experience and the barrage of images that seek to portray some other, modulated or arranged or purely imagined, version of things. And to this end, we can begin to analyze, contextualize, and even appreciate the messages coded for in the medium.

Once we have this sort of distance from “photo as truth,” we recapture our own power as conscious, living, experiencing individuals – whether we are the teenage girl constantly faced with impossible ideals of beauty, the lonely worker trapped in a cubicle, clicking absently through the artifacts of our friends’ latest adventures and pining for some of our own, or simply a tourist, taking the time to capture a snapshot in our own memories — of how a something looked, felt tasted — rather than frantically chasing “the perfect shot.”

 

 

Source: KISSmetrics

Source: KISSmetrics

Hollow Appropriation?

The Halloweekend has just passed, and like that game with fortune cookies where you add “in bed” to the end of every warning and prediction (my most recent fortune works particularly well, “be careful today so you don’t find yourself in mud . . . in bed,”) we saw the usual array of costume identities edited by “half naked.”

Most of us are used to Halloween sluttiness by this point, and hey, it’s kinda fun. You’ve got the traditional spooky ensembles (Half Naked Witch, Half Naked Vampire), the male-fantasy-induced stripper looks, also very solid choices (Half Naked Cop, Half Naked Nurse), the fuzzies (Half Naked Cat, Half Naked Mouse), the sort of clever (Half Naked Dust Bunny – the important bits were covered with that polyester fiberfill stuff) and the perpetually problematic — Half Naked Cultural Appropriation.

 

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It seems that every year at Halloween, we still have to go through the process of explaining to some poor, embarrassed celebrity why blackface isn’t ok. A few years ago, when American Apparel and Urban Outfitters started selling Navajo-print backpacks and turquoise jewelry, there were plenty of incisive remarks about the appropriation of Indian culture.

Cultural appropriation is something I think about a lot – in case you’re wondering, given the name of this blog, I talk about it here – and, amongst a sea of bloggers denouncing dream catcher earrings and feathers in any form, I question whether it’s always wrong to emulate aspects of another culture that you like. For many folks, dressing up as a Native American was a pretty normalized choice to make growing up, so it’s interesting that the particularly impolitic ubiquity of the ‘hipster headdress’ – which has recently become a not-just-Halloween accessory on the summer festival circuit – has helped put the definitive kibosh on the flippant use of indigenous dress. The Half Nakedness with which this item has popularly been accompanied during dance festivals and Halloweentimes (both socially acceptable occasions to be in little more than underwear on the Best Coast) has actually helped hasten the understanding that this is a disrespectful move, given the warbonnet’s deep ceremonial ties.

But it also reminded me of a few weeks last year when the term ‘hipster racism’ was much bandied about – raising a lot of great points – but the most significant point, to me, was that though the phenomenon and its implications had been written about for years, it didn’t ignite the fires of internet pontification until the theme was adopted by a white blogger in reference to, among other things, a popular show (Girls) about four white women, written by white women. Scandal ensued when one of the writers bristled at complaints that no minorities were featured in what had been, at that point, only one episode. Whitewashing in television is a serious concern, but it’s also, as TV critic Judy Berman cogently pointed out when the show tried to address the issue, a tricky sort of damned-if-you-do-damned-if-you-don’t situation no matter how it’s handled. It left me wondering about our troubled relationship to race in general, and if our reactions focused on pointing out the squirrely, persistent nature of problem sometimes make it worse by causing further division. After all, how do we know where cultural (mis)appropriation ends, and the good ol’ melting potting begins?

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Food is a universal, the share and share alike of cultural trading. No one gets upset when a black person eats a burrito or a white person has dim sum . . . I don’t think. Language, for the most part, seems ok to share — a whole host of guttural, spit-inducing words have migrated from Yiddish to standard American English, and no one seems to kvetch about it. Music is a little more trouble — we are definitely uncomfortable with white people making acoustic covers of rap and hip hop songs, for a host a reasons that are probably good. But clothing is a particularly tricky issue. Putting on a costume is different than drinking sake because, in a way, it is intended to literally transform the wearer, allowing them to effectively act for the culture represented. With the new identity, actions take on additional significance. Costumes yield the power to mock, undermine, insult. . .  but also, this cartoon notwithstanding, to celebrate.

One of my favorite traditions from living in San Francisco’s Mission is celebrating Dia de los Muertos. Cleveland’s Hispanic population is still small, and Day of the Dead is not really universal there. But in the Mission, everyone celebrates. Beautiful shrines are built along the streets, where people mill about exchanging marigolds and leaving notes and gifts for their dearly departed. And everyone  – white, black, Mexican, whatever – paints their face.

When I came across this cogently written article, from a Chicana who grew up on the San Diego/Tijuana border, about non-Latin people wearing skull makeup, I felt the familiar uneasiness – the same one I got every year growing up when my school held ‘Diversity Day.’ It was the feeling of having a faint objection, but not knowing quite how to frame it. But delving a bit deeper into to writer’s website provided the answer.

About herself, she writes “I come from a family of migrants who truly deconstruct the meaning of the U.S./Mex border. Seeing their struggles, how they were marginalized, discriminated, and yet being a product of their survival and resistance, I find my inspiration to come from them first.”

Indeed, her posts reveal a strong character and sharp political mind, cementing her identity as an " anti-border, sex-positive, body-positive, fighter of the patriarchy [who is] constantly learning to deconstruct binaries and barriers.”

But (and since her background is not my background, perhaps I am in no position to question) it did leave me wondering: couldn’t an effective part of deconstructing barriers include (respectful) sharing of celebrations and cultural rights?

I don’t think there are any definite answers, but if you, like me, find yourself drawn to the joyful remembrance and celebration of loved ones passed (definitely a happier alternative to the morose approach we take here in America), or any other custom from a culture which isn’t yours, perhaps check out this useful guide before whipping out the white face paint. 

Staking Their Claim: Urban Homesteaders draw the (intellectual) property lines

Ruby Blume, co-author of Urban Homesteading: Heirloom Skills for Sustainable Living  was sent a cease-and-desist letter claiming that the term "urban homesteading" was a registered trademark of the Dervaes Institute in Pasadena.. 

Ruby Blume, co-author of Urban Homesteading: Heirloom Skills for Sustainable Living  was sent a cease-and-desist letter claiming that the term "urban homesteading" was a registered trademark of the Dervaes Institute in Pasadena.

Ask anyone who's ever raised a barn or bee'd a quilt: farming is about community, wherever it can be found. For the isolated homesteaders who spread out across the American West, community often meant traveling long distances during the spring planting or the fall butcher and harvest. Groups of men would traverse the prairie between often-sparse settlements (the Land Ordinance of 1785 implemented a standard survey wherein the minimum parcel was one square mile or 640 acres; by 1800 the number was halved to 320 -– still unweildy, but a good bargain for the $1.25, payable in four installments) to reach out to their neighbors and lend a helping hand.

For the most part, today's homesteaders must counter a different type of isolation – asphalt not grass and sky – which is why, for years, the Internet has been the second home to a steadily growing network of urban farmers who till their carrots and tap away on their keyboards about the experience.  

Sharing knowledge is a crucial element of the homesteading experience, to keep trial-and-error from becoming trial-and-travail. So it's understandable that pastoralists the blogosphere over erupted in rage and hurt this February when the Dervaes Institute – a long-time and, for some, much loved Internet presence and self-proclaimed authority on the subject of urban farming – sent not-quite-cease-and-desist letters to sixteen other institutions and small businesses. The letters forbade their recipients, all of whom were becoming established voices in the homesteading community, from using the term “urban homesteading” without designating it as the Dervaes’ intellectual property.

The Dervaes – Jules and his three grown children – have farmed their family-operated organic plot in Pasadena for more than twenty years, and have documented their journey online (formerly at www.PathtoFreedom.com, now at www.UrbanHomestead.org) since 2001. The institute’s first attempt to trademark “urban homesteading,” was denied in 2008, but thanks to an epic two-year struggle with the US Patent and Trademark Office – easily tracked on the PTO’s website – their masthead now boasts a big, round “®.”

But that may soon change. As of today, when San Francisco’s Electronic Frontier Foundation posted notice of a petition filed to fight the Dervaes’ bogus claim, all signs point to two years wasted.

In an email this morning, Corynne McSherry, the intellectual property director at the EFF, wrote that the filing is the crucial first step necessary to (as one group of Facebook users demands) “Take Back Urban Home-Steading(s).” Why the awkward spelling? Because right now, those Facebookers can’t say “Urban Homesteading” either.

In addition to targeting fellow urban homesteading organizations like the Denver Urban Homesteading agricultural center and the Institute of Urban Homesteading founded by Oakland local Ruby Blume, the Dervaes sent DMCA complaints – which, incidentally, apply to copyrights, not trademarks – to Google and Facebook demanding they block pages that use the term. A number of pages have been disabled, but new ones urging community members to “Dump the Dervaes” quickly filled the void.

One of the Facebook pages taken down was Blume's. She was using the social networking site to publicize a new book, co-authored with Rachel Kaplan, called Urban Homesteading: Heirloom Skills for Sustainable Living. In a phone interview this morning, Blume said that she neither learned from, nor knew of, the Dervaes Institute until shortly before receiving two separate letters from the Dervaes – an informal notice directed toward her Oakland homesteading school and a formal cease and desist sent to the publisher of her upcoming book.

 

The crash-course version of trademark law hinges on whether the terms in question are “generic” and “merely descriptive,” or whether they have become – as the Dervaes claimed to the PTO – distinctive of the company’s goods and services. With the dubious claim of “substantially exclusive use” of the terms, the Dervaes managed to squeeze into the supplemental trademark registry for educational purposes – a status that does not confer many rights, according to an EFF spokesperson  . . . and certainly not the right to prohibit Blume and others from using the term in a general sense.

“I learned about urban homesteading from a vital urban homesteading community in the Bay Area,” she said. “The Dervaes Institute wasn’t on my radar at all.”

But now the Dervaes are on everyone’s radar, and they seem to have overdosed on the attention they so desired to secure; I tried to get in touch for a comment, and was apparently not the first – I met with an artistically composed review from an answering machine chock full of reporters' messages, accompanied, at pointed interludes, by the machine’s mechanical “message erased” notification. Thou

gh attempts to protect what they see as their own intellectual property may have backfired personally, the Dervaes debacle actually brought the urban homesteading community much closer together, in Blume’s opinion. She sees it as a rallying point in a movement that is centered on pride and sharing – the reason why so many people from disparate places came together so quickly on the issue.

“When April Krieger started the Take Back Urban Home-Steading(s) page,” Blume said, “over 1,000 joined in the first day.”

What Blume describes as a micro-revolution merely reinforces the values of self-reliance and community support that urban homesteading teaches.

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“They’ve really put urban homesteading on the national map,” Blume said. And along with it – judging by the popularity of the newly re-christened Facebook page – Blume and Kaplan’s upcoming book. 

Though the Electronic Frontier Foundation has formally filed its petition on behalf of a different set of authors, Kelly Coyne and Eric Knutzen, as well as the publisher of that duo's 2008 work The Urban Homestead: Your Guide to Self-Sufficient Living in the City, Blume and Kaplan are likewise at the center of the controversy. Even making it out of the publishing house, their forthcoming book made it onto Wikipedia’s brand-new urban homesteading page.

But for Blume, Kaplan, and all the others who rallied around the Dervaes trademark dispute, publicity was the last thing on their minds.

“Being urban homesteaders is very much about our humanity,” Blume explained. “It’s our birthright to grow and preserve food.  We’ve been doing it for millennia. The possibility that it might be taken away is just so against the feeling of the movement. Sharing resources and ideas, that’s what it’s all about.”

Kaplan agrees.  In addition to co-authoring the book, the Petaluma resident has worked with community reliance organization Daily Acts to shape the Homegrown Guild, a group committed to dispersing knowledge and hands-on assistance among its hundreds of members.

“We share information like we share bounty,” Kaplan said. “Our job is to keep inspire one another to keep raising the bar.”

The co-authors, who met over 20 years ago as members of San Francisco’s Mission art scene, wove a broad yet intricate guide, with Blume providing the artwork and photographs as well as some of the more nitty-gritty how-to’s, and Kaplan producing the bulk of the writing, or what Blume describes as the “why-to.”

Nearly every aspect of their collaboration was fortuitous. Blume had been approached by several publishers to produce a book – something she realized she “didn’t really want to do” at the expense of her teaching. At the same time, Kaplan, knowing nothing about the potential book deal, looked up Blume with her own ideas about writing a book.

The pieces fell into place, and a partnership was born. At its heart, Urban Homesteading: Heirloom Skills for Sustainable Living is about cooperation – perhaps the Dervaes should pick up a copy.

Pick up a copy yourself at the following Urban Homesteading: Heirloom Skills for Sustainable Living book launches:

Ecology Center

April 14, 7 p.m.

2530 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley

www.ecologycenter.org

Modern Times Bookstore

April 27, 7 p.m.

888 Valencia, SF

www.mtbs.com